b"Its hard to believe that a very large trout in theThe Wave is comprised of Navajo sandstone dunesBill Russell were massive Colorado River will seek and eat such athat have calcified vertically and horizontally,the original tiny fly. They do.turning into hardened, compacted rocks overhomesteaders at time. The peculiar and unique fluctuating stratumCliff Dwellers. The river flows at varying rates but the waterwas created by slow wind and rain erosion. ManyThe cowboys who temperature stays at a constant 48 degrees, adescribe walking through the dunes as an intenselydrove cattle on perfect environment for healthy trout. Lees Ferrystrange experience, surreal and vertigo-inducing,the Arizona Strip is managed as a trophy trout fishery and becauseor in several cases, described as being like a drug- called the Russell it is a year-round fishery, an angler can catch 12 toinduced walking dream. The rock is certainly ahomestead Cliff 24-inch free swimming rainbow trout. And as thephotographers delight, where professionals andDwellers because seasons change, so does the fishing. The summeramateurs strive to take the perfect mid-day shotof its proximity to months are a great time to visit Lees Ferry andwhen not a single shadow eclipses the Wave, or theythe Vermilion Cliffs.target eager rainbows rising to a whole slew of biggo for the more dramatic effect of morning or near-terrestrials. In the fall, spring and winter monthstwilight that comes with the high domes castingIt is the home of the Gunn Terry Trophy Trout fish for aggressively feeding rainbows in thestark shadows on the land. Tours. The hotel sits on 30 acres and has a world-riffles and deeper runs. Trout at Lees Ferry gorgeclass fly shop, convenience store, restaurant, themselves on tiny midge larva, scuds, and aquaticWhile the rocks have been hardened, they are stillbar, and gas station. There are 20 hotel rooms worms. The tannins in the fishs food source causesusceptible to damage. To preserve its serene nature,and a separate guest house is available that will them to exhibit magnificent spawning colorsthe Bureau of Land Management only issues 20accommodate up to six people. Rooms include which have become synonymous with Lees Ferry.permits per day to visitors. If youre lucky enough tosatellite TV with premium channels and coffee-While the Colorado River at Lees Ferry is ideallysecure one, you must then hike nearly three milesmaking facilities.suited to fly-fishing and is the primary emphasis,across the open desert from the trailhead closest to spin casting with appropriate barbless lures can bethe site to reach it. The permits are issued throughMile Post 547 N Hwy 89A, equally rewarding. online and in-person lotteries, and tour guides areMarble Canyon, Arizona 86036available for hire. 928-355-2261, cliffdwellerslodge.comThe area known as The Walk-In is the perfect choice for anglers without a boat looking for a one- WHERE TO STAY Lees Ferry Lodgein-a-lifetime trout fishing experience. To enter theMarble Canyon Lodge Lees Ferry Lodge at Vermilion Cliffs provides area you need to purchase a $25 permit for the week,Ninety years ago they were a trading post for thequiet and comfortable lodging for travelers in or have a pass to the national parks. You also needNavajo Nation. A 9-minute walk from the Navajoscenic northern Arizona. This rustic lodge in a your Arizona Fishing License, if you plan on fishing. Bridge over the Colorado River, this rustic Oldstone-and-timber building is 4 miles from Navajo West-style lodge is 5 miles from the Lees Ferry andBridge Interpretive Center's craft vendors and Lonely Dell Ranch historic district. pedestrian bridge.The comfortable rooms have charmingThe lodges restaurant is open for breakfast and Southwestern decor, antique-style furnishings,dinner. It is one of the best in Arizona, with an and benches conveniently placed under a coveredextensive wine list and a collection of exotic walkway. The private apartments can sleep upgourmet beers. Each of the ten rooms is themed, to six people and have cable TV, kitchens, anddecorated, cozy, and complete with a breathtaking private balconies or decks. Guests enjoy an on-siteview. Pets are also welcome in any of the rooms, restaurant with complimentary breakfast, a bar/ and each room has its own heating and AClounge, a coffee shop, a lazy river, a business center,to provide complete comfort. Comfort is aand a conference center. There is also a gas station,very high priority at the Lees Ferry Lodge,a trading post, and an airstrip.and that philosophy shows in every aspectof these cozy rooms.U.S. Hwy 89A, Marble Canyon, Arizona 86036928-355-2225 N. Hwy 89A, Marble Canyon, Arizona 86036928-355-2231, vermilioncliffs.com THE WAVE Cliff Dwellers Lodge In the Coyote Buttes ravine, some 5,225 feet aboveThe Cliff Dwellers Lodge is located between the sea level, stands Arizonas the Wave. The WaveNorth and South Rims of the Grand Canyon has a remarkable undulating appearance, withbeneath the massive sandstone structures stretched like taffyVermilion and cinnamon color strata domes. It is, in a way, aCliffs National geological snapshot in time, a still shot of the effectMonument. natural forces have on the environment. Blanche and ArizonaRealCountry.com April 2019 29"