b'By Jim and Bobbi Jeen Olson,WesternTradingPost.comT he banning of items such as ivory,enforcement efforts against the illegal tortoise shell, bear claws, andtrade of banned materials have certain other animal parts inincreased, driven largely by self-the jewelry and decorative itemsappointed watchdog organizations. industries has had a great impactBut public perception has also on the markets. These commonlychanged. Recently on a Facebook used materials were once highlypost we observed, somebody had sought-after for their beauty,posted a piece of jewelry with bear durability, and unique aestheticclaws. They were jumped all over qualities. However, governmentsby an un-educated public who was worldwide have implemented strictadamant that it was illegal to sell laws to prohibit certain trade. Thethe piece. While in certain states, bans have resulted in a decline inthat may be true, that is not the case availability, increased enforcementeverywhere. However, the general efforts, and changes in consumerperception was that it is illegal, not only preferences and market dynamics. illegal but according to someimmoral. There were several threats to turn the THE BAN ON TORTOISE SHELLS poster in and the online cancel culture mob Tortoise shell was widely used in fashionmentality was prevalent.and personal accessories, including hair combs and brushes, eyewear,WHERE DO WE GO FROM HERE?jewelry, decorative objects, and musicalThe outlawing of ivory, tortoise shells, instruments. The ban, effective since 1973,and bear claws in many places and coral compelled designers and manufacturersrestrictions have had far-reaching effects. to either find alternative materials or ceaseThe bans have reshaped the industry, production of certain items. Although tradingleading to scarcity, price fluctuations, and in certain items made prior to the ban waschanges in consumer behavior. Designers initially allowed and widely accepted, it hasand manufacturers try and adapt to meet the become illegal worldwide since 2014 (unless solddemands, but sometimes that is a moving target. with proven documentation to be 100 years orWhile some vintage pieces with these banned older). Consequently, the market value for tortoisematerials experienced a temporary surge in value, shell items that are older than 1973 but not yet 100who knows what the long-term market outlook could has virtually disappeared with many dealers refusingbe. For example, vintage bear claw and coral jewelry to touch them. The initial surge in value due toThe outlawing of ivory, tortoise(which are still legal to sell in most markets right now) limited availability has since plummeted to basicallydo very well in those markets, but so did ivory and nothing (except on the black market). There areshells, and bear claws in manytortoise shells at one time (before facing even further currently thousands of these types of items out thererestrictions). Will claws and coral go the way of ivory with nowhere to go. places and coral restrictions haveand tortoise shells? A better question might be, What ONGOING CORAL RESTRICTIONS had far-reaching effects. The bansis next? What material do we widely use right now that nobody thinks anything about which may be Coral, particularly Mediterranean coral, known forhave reshaped the industry, leadingcompletely illegal to trade in 50 years from now? its vibrant colors and unique texture, was once very popular in jewelry making. However, most countriesto scarcity, price fluctuations, and have highly restricted the harvesting of coral sincechanges in consumer behavior. the 1980s, with even stricter regulations going into effect in 2019. This ban on coral harvesting has also impacted the industry. Designers and jewelers haveregulations have made it increasingly challenging had to seek alternatives and the re-sale market hasto obtain the materials for commercial purposes. seen a surge in prices for vintage pieces featuringConsequently, prices for existing items have coral. Sound familiar? The same thing happened withfluctuated, with some experiencing a surge in tortoise shell in the 1970s. However, the future forvalue initially, sometimes followed by a decline as coral remains uncertain, as some speculate there isdemand diminished upon the trade being completely a possibility that coral items may face broader tradeoutlawed (such as tortoise shell and most ivory restrictions, similar to the complete ban on tortoiseitems). Jewelry designers and retailers trying to shell and most ivory items. keep up with the laws and trends have adapted their practices to comply with regulations and cater to MARKET SHIFTS AND CONSEQUENCES changing consumer preferences. In many cases, they Bans and restrictions on things like ivory, tortoisehave sought alternative materials. This has led to the shells, bear claws (only in certain places right now),emergence of new techniques and materials such as and coral have significantly affected the availabilitysynthetic substitutes and recycled materials (which and demand for items made from these materials.do not have the same collectors market desirability Tightening legal restrictions and international tradeas the original pieces). Furthermore, governmental 32 June 2023'