b'The Secrets of SourdoughBy Joyce WhiteW hat do cowboys like to eat with thick steaks andvisions quickly faded when I drew thin, pale, sullen biscuits coffee? Sourdough biscuits! But what if youre anfrom my oven.apprentice cowgirl who cant find a recipe to match your husbands vivid memory of golden brown biscuitsUndaunted, I diligently looked through recipe books and eaten near the chuck wagon on roundups of days gone by?pestered ranch wives everywhere with my opening topic Such was my predicament. of conversation, Can you make sourdough bread? Time passed. All the while my husband bravely chewed through the In the early days, sourdough starter was a staple in thetoughest concoctions imaginable. Repeatedly, Id look at him kitchen and out on the range. Many old-time ranch cooksexpectantly only to hear a sad verdict. Id search and search, used sourdough every day and if for some reason theirfinally asking my question less and less. Yet, like ghosts from starter went dead they usually borrowed it from a neighbor,the chuck wagon, those biscuits haunted me. Then one day often carrying it a long distance on horseback. we stopped by to visit with folks at a distant ranch, and there on the kitchen counter was sourdough starter bubbling in its Most every wagon cook had his favorite recipe forcrock! I sniffed the air and shrieked, Will you tell me how to sourdough bread to feed those hungry cowboys. Andmake it? I requested. They not only gave me a recipe for the sometimes his recipe was a guarded secret too. Perhaps thatstarter but they showed me how to make the biscuitsand I was due to all the trouble he had tending the temperamentalwill never ever forget those biscuitstall, golden brown, with stuff, for it had to be wrapped up and kept warm. Its beenjust the right twang of sourdough flavor.said that the cook usually slept with it. Anyone going to that much fuss was entitled to a secret recipe, dont you agree? Of course, I made my starter that very night when we got back to the ranch, adding a bit more sugar to please the169 E Wickenburg WayNot only was sourdough popular with cowboys, but itchuckwagon ghost, and placed it by our warm fireplaceWickenburg, AZ 85390was also a favorite among prospectors, trappers, andto workI hoped. Three hours later I peeked under its homesteaders too. That sourdough starter was a preciouscover and found the starter was topped with huge bubbles.928-684-6123possession when bread-making at home was a necessityI bundled the crock up for the night, as tenderly as aOpens at 11:00am DAILYsince food supplies came only once or twice a year. Whynew-born baby, and went to bed to dream of successful was sourdough more popular than other yeast breads?sourdough baking. The next day at lunchtime my starter Because yeast became deactivated in a short time and wouldwas still bubbling happily and it appeared eager to help me deteriorate entirely if the supplies were delayed. Yeast in thereconstruct a memory. Together we worked. To half of the sourdough starter proved to be tough and durable, hencestarter I added flour, baking powder, warm milk, and mixed the starter became that prized possession.them all carefully together. Next, I turned the soft dough out onto a floured board to kneadnot too much, not too My search for a recipe began shortly after I married mylittle. When it felt spongy under my hands, I pinched off the cowboy. In fact, we had barely tied the knot when he askedbiscuits and placed them on the greased pan. After rising if I could make sourdough biscuits. Eager not to fall shortfor 20 minutes they were ready to pop in the hot oven.of my qualifications as a ranch wife I reluctantly said I could not but that I would learn how. I didnt know what IAs I waited I grew more jittery with each passing moment. I was saying. Have you ever searched for a recipe to match ahad eaten them, I had a recipe for them but could I actually tasty memory? If so, you know how difficult that is to find.make them? My husband came in for lunch, sniffed and My husband had eaten lots of sourdough breads during hisgrinned at me. Expectancy hung in the air like thunderheads early cowboying days and he told mouthwatering details ofpromising rain. I opened the oven door and there they were their texture, their aroma, and their golden brown beauty. tall and golden! He selected one, buttered it, and sampled. Thus began a long search for the exact list of ingredients forHis face lit up and he reached for another liberally covering that old-time favorite, along with detailed instructions onit with butter. I sighed happily. My long search was over. A how to proceed as I had readily discovered that I was notrecipe for my cowboys favorite vittles had been found, and from the pinch of this dash of that culinary school. the ghost from the chuck wagon was quiet at last. Though I visited with many folks who had eaten sourdoughSourdough Starterbread in the past, none could tell me exactly how to make it. Theyd say, WellI recall you take some water saved from boiled potatoes and add a little sugar and some flour. IdPut the following ingredients in a crock or large leap up and ask how much water, sugar, and flour and theybowl but never in anything metal.would reply, Uhyoull just have to experiment a bit.2 cups warm potato water(saved from cooking peeled potatoes) 3 tablespoons sugarSo Id gallop home with the verbal recipe, boil potatoes,teaspoon saltsave water, add sugar and flour and pour the brew into 1cups unsifted flourmy crock to await the results. I must have added too many pinches and too few dashes because only sour, odorousMix well. Cover and set crock in a warm draft-free smells came forth from the starter that refusedspot. Allow the starter to work 12 to 24 hours to bubble and give promise.before using it in your recipes. This recipe makes Soon Id locate anothertwo cups.verbal suggestion. Id thank my donor and hasten home to grate potatoes, add ingredients and wait. Again visions of sourdough biscuits, light, and golden brown, danced in my head; but those ArizonaRealCountry.com November 2019 15'